The next pre-weathering step is to add some variation of color vertically on some of the wood boards using AK Weathering Pencils (see Category: TIPS-TOOLS/AK WEATHERING PENCILS). The amount of application can be varied for a less weathered car or for something more heavily so.
As I wrote in that previous posting, these pencils leave a sheen or greasy look and that’s why I add them here as opposed to a last step after flat coating. I applied a little of each of the above colors on the wood areas of the car. Then, I used an old Tamiya flat brush to rub the pencil marks, blending them into the body color. In the picture below the centre panel is just the pencil application while on the right the pencil area was rubbed with the brush.
I expect the contrast to diminish some after I apply the black oil wash, so I went a bit heavier than I thought I would ultimately need. The coat of Future gloss should preserve them somewhat – I’m still new to this as this is the first live model I’ve tried these pencils.
Lastly, I airbrushed two coats of Future waiting about 30 minutes between them (three passes on the first application, and two on the last). An airbrush that has a very small tip, like the .30mm GREX Xb I use, in my experience, does not give a good smooth glossy finish, so I use a Badger 350 single action airbrush (with medium tip, ~25 psi) to apply the Future (please – see Category: TIPS/TOOLS FUTURE)
I avoid glossing the roof and underbody – I think the roof especially needs to be as flat as possible. Since we must apply decals, gloss coating the sides and ends is essential. But, even the best flat clears can’t make as good a flat as matt paint sprayed from an airbrush – the sharp peaks and valleys get filled in with the gloss varnish and there’s no recovering them.
Anyway, here’s how it looks in gloss…
After leaving this for a day I will apply decals.
Next post: Oil Wash